ESRC IAA GCRF Visit to the East African Community (EAC) countries to discuss innovative alternatives to their recently passed directive to phase out ‘Used Textiles and Leather Products’ Trade’ in the EAC by 2019

Description of impact

Jalia Packwood will visit the leaders of East African Community (EAC) Countries (Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Burundi and Rwanda) to share an innovative alternative to the recently passed directive to phase out the trade in Used Textiles and Leather Products in the EAC region by 2019.
The Sustainability Lab (S-Lab) in collaboration with the TRA and BIR have developed an innovative win-win strategy demonstrating how both exporting and importing countries can trade together without compromising each other’s development. The new strategy developed by Jalia offers solutions for both sides: the people in the EAC and the exporting countries that depend on this trade for employment and clothing; the charities, which depend on the trade to raise funds and Local Authorities through redirecting clothes from landfill. In addition we suggest that the used clothes trade can contribute to the growth of local textile industry as well as benefit other sectors.
We are also exploring the opportunities that can be harnessed if the EAC collaborates with the UK and other exporting countries To Influence the outcome of the EAC directive, meetings will be organised for Jalia (who is from Uganda originally) with the Finance and Trade Ministers, as well as the EAC ministries of each of the five EAC countries with the aim for the proposed strategy to be considered at the next EAC Finance and Trade Ministers’ meeting in October, where they will take decisions regarding the recently passed directive. EAC Ministers report back to the Presidents about their strategies.
If successfully adopted our strategy could influence EAC policy on Used Textile and Leather products trade and protect the livelihoods of millions of people in East Africa and many thousands in the UK. It will also provide opportunities for collaboration with the exporting countries to grow the EAC textile Industry.

Impact Summary for the General Public

The Bangor Sustainability Lab, in collaboration with the Textile Recycling Association (TRA) and the European Bureau for International Recycling (BIR) have developed a win-win strategy demonstrating how both exporting and importing countries can trade together without compromising each other’s development. The new strategy developed by Jalia offers solutions for both sides: the people in the EAC; and the exporting countries that depend on this trade for employment and clothing (particularly charities, which depend on the trade to raise funds; and Local Authorities through redirecting clothes from landfill).
We are also exploring the opportunities that can be harnessed if the EAC collaborates with the UK and other exporting countries.

To Influence the outcome of the EAC directive, Co-I Jalia Packwood (who is from Uganda originally) will meet with the Finance and Trade Ministers, as well as the EAC ministries of each of the five EAC countries with the aim for the proposed strategy to be considered at the next EAC Finance and Trade Ministers’ meeting in October, where they will take decisions regarding the recently passed directive. EAC Ministers report back to the Presidents about their strategies.

If successfully adopted, Packwood’s and Young’s strategy could influence East African Community policy on Used Textile and Leather products trade and protect the livelihoods of millions of people in East Africa and many thousands in the UK. It will also provide opportunities for collaboration with the exporting countries to grow the EAC textile Industry.

Description of the underpinning research

As part of the WISE Network project (www.wisenetwork.org) a collaborative project was developed with Draigtex, a consortium of three social enterprises in North Wales working together to increase collection and export used textiles. Market research was conducted in Uganda by Jalia in January 2015 with the aim of identifying more customers and creating a new market for the Draigtex products.
Jalia’s research revealed that at the time the East African Community (EAC), which includes Uganda, was in the process of planning a ban on the importation of used clothes into East Africa. She found that government policy in the EAC region was impacting negatively on the used textile trade in Wales, the UK, Europe, America and elsewhere.
Jalia presented the findings to relevant stakeholders in Wales and UK which included an innovative solution to the challenge. As a result we are collaborating with different stakeholders in the trade e.g. UK Textile Recyclers’ Association (TRA), The Charity Retailers’ Association (CRA), The European Bureau for International Recycling (BIR) among others to work together to find a solution that will protect the trade. This problem has negatively impacted on both International stakeholders and the East African businesses/ communities that depend on the trade.

Beneficiaries and reach of impact

Currently, the EAC governments oppose the importation of used clothes from the ‘developed’ nations due to the perception that they are a) being used as a dumping ground and b) that this trade is hampering their domestic textile industry. The response/retaliation of the ‘developed nations’ is making matters worse.

1. Our proposed solution will provide EAC countries leaders to develop partnerships with exporting countries to benefit their economies without making things worse for their poorest people rather than escalate confrontation (which is currently the case). They can also use it as a negotiating position with their major partners like the EU and USA, to show how the trade can be continued while enabling the EAC to attain its goal in the sector.

2. The result will be shared at the BIR meeting in Amsterdam in October as members plan to deal with the EAC issues that have affected the trade.

If successfully adopted, Packwood’s and Young’s strategy could influence EAC policy on Used Textile and Leather products trade and protect the livelihoods of millions of people in East Africa and many thousands in the UK. It will also provide opportunities for collaboration with the exporting countries to grow the EAC textile Industry.

Impact status	Ongoing
Impact date	27 Sept 2016 → 31 Dec 2016
Category of impact	Economic